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mercredi 15 octobre 2025

8 flowers you can grow with just water. Full article ๐Ÿ‘‡ ๐Ÿ’ฌ

 

Introduction: Growing Flowers in Water — Why It’s Possible & What It Means

Growing plants in water (water propagation, hydroponics, or just “vase culture”) is popular because:

  • You can see the roots grow, which is satisfying and educational.

  • It’s cleaner / less messy than soil.

  • It’s good for propagation: you start new plants cheaply from cuttings.

  • Some plants / flowers naturally thrive in wet or boggy environments or have bulbs/rhizomes adapted to water.

But note: “growing in water” most often means rooting a cutting, keeping a plant in a water culture, or keeping bulb bases or rhizomes partially submerged. Rarely is it fully submerged and flowering long‑term without any substrate. Light, nutrients, water quality, oxygen, and hygiene are all important.

This guide explores 8 flowers that either flower or at least thrive (root, grow foliage, sometimes bloom) when grown in water or very wet conditions, and gives you the full recipe for doing this well.


The 8 Flowers You Can Grow in Water (or Water Culture)

Here are eight flowers / flowering plants (or flowering bulbs) that are known to do well (or sometimes bloom) with water propagation or water culture / hydroponics / water vase growing. For each: its strengths, how to grow it in water, special needs.

Flower / PlantWhy It Works in Water / What It NeedsFlowering Potential in WaterChallenges / Caveats
1. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum spp.)Known to thrive in water culture: you can root cuttings in water, or maintain the whole plant in a vase. Its roots tolerate wet conditions; leaves/faux‑soil roots above water seem okay. Garden Betty+2House Digest+2Peace lilies can bloom (white spathes) even when grown in water, given enough light and occasional nutrients. Gardening Channel+1Needs bright, indirect light; water must be changed frequently to avoid rot; roots or crown must not stay in fully stagnant or badly oxygenated water.
2. Hyacinth (bulbs)Hyacinth bulbs do well when grown with their base just touching water. Often grown indoors in special bulb glasses / jars. No soil required, but bulb base must not be soaked/buried. balconygardenweb.com+1They produce their flower spikes while in these water glasses. Gorgeous bloom indoors. Architectural Foundation+1Bulb needs enough light; very clean water; avoid rotting at bulb base; after bloom, care must switch (usually pot‐soil or letting bulbs rest) or they decline.
3. Lavender (Lavandula spp.) (cuttings)Fresh softwood cuttings of lavender can root in water. Leaves must be trimmed, lower leaves removed, nodes submerged. This is propagation rather than full flower culture. balconygardenweb.comBlooming while still rooted in water is rare; usually after transplant into soil. But you can root quickly in water, then move. balconygardenweb.comLavender doesn’t like overly wet conditions long term; fungal rot is a danger; bloom quality often suffers in pure water without substrate or soil later.
4. Petunia (Petunia spp.) (cuttings)Petunia stem cuttings root fairly well in water: stems placed in water, nodes submerged, roots develop. balconygardenweb.comFlowering from those propagated plants after transplant; sometimes small bloom buds appear while still in water but not sustained. balconygardenweb.comNeeds strong light; change water often; watch for algae / bacterial issues; petunia blooms in water only are limited.
5. Oxalis (bulbous / rhizome bulbs)Oxalis bulbs do very well in water bulb glasses; the bulb sits just above or touching water; leaves and flowers emerge nicely. Architectural FoundationThey bloom inside vases; delicate small flowers; very decorative. Architectural FoundationLight must be good; bulbs need rest sometimes; water quality important; after flowering they might need dormant break or partial soil.
6. Water Iris / Aquatic IrisesAquatic or bog irises (water iris) are naturally adapted to wet soil or shallow water; they can be grown with their rhizomes or roots in water, in pond edges or water troughs. The Spruce+1These can flower reliably in pond or water garden settings. Their flower stalks rise above water. The SpruceThey need enough depth; avoid full submersion of rhizome; water must be reasonably clean; risk of pests or algae.
7. Water Lily / Lotus (Nelumbo etc.)True aquatic flowers: their rhizomes run beneath water; leaves often float or rise; flowers are built for water. Lotus and water lilies thrive in water ponds. ูˆูŠูƒูŠุจูŠุฏูŠุง+1Very showy blooms above water; dramatic display; used in ponds/fountains. ูˆูŠูƒูŠุจูŠุฏูŠุง+1Needs full sun; sufficient water depth; nutrients; pond maintenance; sometimes hardy zone limitations; wintering etc.
8. Water Hyacinth & Water PoppyFree‑floating aquatic plants. They live entirely on/in water; roots hang down, flowers above. No soil substrate needed in many cases. The SpruceThey bloom in water; especially water poppies have charming yellow blooms; hyacinth has showy flowers. The SpruceThey can become invasive; require management; nutrient / water quality must be good; if growing indoors, control pests / smells; they may need space.

Full “Recipe” / Protocol: How to Grow These Flowers in Water Successfully

Here’s a step‑by‑step protocol (almost like a recipe) that you can follow to propagate and/or grow any of the above in water, with the best chance of success. Use for cuttings, bulbs, or aquatic species as appropriate.


What You’ll Need (Materials)

  • Clean glass containers, vases, or aquariums / shallow ponds (depending on scale)

  • Clean water (ideally filtered / rain water or dechlorinated)

  • Cuttings (for petunia, lavender, peace lily, etc.), or healthy bulbs (for hyacinth, oxalis), or aquatic plant purchases for water iris, water hyacinth etc.

  • Light source: bright indirect indoor light or outdoor pond sun as appropriate

  • Optional nutrients or water‑soluble fertilizer (for aquatic plants or cuttings after roots form)

  • Scissors / pruning shears sterilized

  • Optional rooting hormone (for cuttings)

  • Optional weights or pebbles / substrate for aquatic plants that need anchoring


Steps for Cuttings (e.g. Peace Lily, Petunia, Lavender)

  1. Select healthy stem: Choose non‑flowering stem if possible; recent growth; free from pests or disease.

  2. Make clean cut: Use sharp sterilized shears; cut just below a node (point where leaf emerges). Leave 3‑4 inches (≈7‑10 cm) or more. Remove lower leaves so that nodes are exposed.

  3. Optional treatment: Dip base in rooting hormone to speed rooting.

  4. Place in water: Use container enough to submerge nodes but keep leaves above water line. Use clean water.

  5. Light & temperature: Place where there is bright indirect light; moderate warmth (avoid cold drafts, cold water).

  6. Water maintenance: Change water regularly (every few days or week) to prevent stagnation, algae, bacterial growth. Keep water level high so roots stay submerged.

  7. Observe root growth: Over 1‑4 weeks, roots start to form. Once healthy roots of several cm exist, you can continue to grow in water or transplant to soil (especially for non‑aquatic/flowering cuttings).

  8. Encourage bloom (if possible): For those that can bloom in water (peace lily etc.), provide sufficient light and some nutrients (a light‑dilution liquid fertilizer) occasionally.


Steps for Bulbs (e.g. Hyacinth, Oxalis)

  1. Select bulb: Healthy, firm bulb; not moldy or soft.

  2. Use specialized bulb vase: A vessel that allows the base of the bulb to touch water while keeping the bulb neck/dry. Many hyacinth glasses do this.

  3. Watering: Fill container so water just touches base of bulb. Avoid submerging too much.

  4. Light & temperature: Cool, dark phase may be needed initially for some bulbs (hyacinth needs chilling). After roots appear, move to light.

  5. Bloom care: Once flower stalk appears, ensure enough light so flower opens fully. Keep water fresh.

  6. Post‑bloom care: After flowering, let foliage (leaves) grow so bulb stores energy; sometimes transfer to soil or allow dormancy; bulbs eventually need rest periods.


Steps for Aquatic Flowers (e.g. Water Iris, Water Lily, Water Hyacinth etc.)

  1. Select the right container or pond: Depth appropriate (e.g. water lilies need certain depth, reeds and iris shallow edges).

  2. Plant or float: Either root or rhizome in substrate under water (or baskets), or float free‑floating aquatic plants.

  3. Sunlight: Many aquatic flowers need full or partial sun. Without sun, flowering suffers.

  4. Nutrients: Aquatic soil or substrate should have nutrients; sometimes fertilizer needed (slow release aquatic plant fertilizer).

  5. Water quality: Keep water clean; avoid stagnation, algae overgrowth, pests.

  6. Maintenance: Remove old or dead leaves; divide plants when they overgrow; winter care if cold.


Related Tips, Tricks & Hidden Hacks

To make your water‑grown flowers look their best and last longer, these less-mentioned tips help a lot.

  • Use clear or translucent containers so you can see root development; but clean well so algae don't block light too much or make water ugly.

  • Refresh water with small nutrient boosts if possible (for cuttings / aquatics), but don’t overdo, because too much fertilizer in water can cause algae or burning.

  • Temperature matters: Water that’s too cold or fluctuating can stall root growth or damage cuttings.

  • Nodes are key: Roots always emerge from nodes; in cuttings, ensure nodes are submerged. Without a node, no roots.

  • Sterilize tools to avoid fungal / bacterial contamination. Change water when murky.

  • Support flowering cuttings: Some flowers need additional light or humidity; flowering in water is more demanding than just foliage propagation.

  • Watch for rot: Leaf bases in water rot quickly; cut off dead parts; avoid submerging non‑root parts.


Common Mistakes & How to Avoid Them

MistakeWhat Goes WrongHow to Fix / Prevent
Leaving leaves submerged or too close to waterLeaves rot; mold growth; stem stems rotRemove lower leaves; ensure only the node parts are under water; keep foliage above water line
Using dirty water or stagnant waterBacteria, algae, bad smell, root rotChange water periodically; rinse container; use filtered/rain water if possible
Not enough lightWeak root growth; no flowering; etiolationPlace where good indirect sunlight; maybe supplement with grow lights if indoors
Overcrowded cuttingsLow oxygen; roots entangled; struggleUse multiple containers spaced; don’t crowd too many in one jar
Switching abruptly to soil after water rootingShock to plant; roots may sufferCreate gradual transition; keep soil moist initially; avoid direct harsh sun after transplant

Full “8‑Flowers in Water” Plan / Schedule

Here’s a sample plan you can follow over ~8‑12 weeks to try out growing 3‑4 of these water‑friendly flowers, giving you time to root, bloom (where possible), and evaluate what works best for your space.

Week 0 – Preparation

  • Gather cuttings / bulbs / aquatic plant starts.

  • Clean containers.

  • Choose locations with good light.

  • If using bulbs (hyacinth, oxalis), pick vessels.

Week 1

  • Take cuttings (peace lily, petunia, lavender etc.); prepare bulbs; start aquatic plants.

  • Place in water. Add rooting hormone if using cuttings.

Weeks 2‑3

  • Monitor roots: expect visible root nubs especially on cuttings. Change water as needed. Remove any rotting leaves.

  • For bulbs, expect root emergence, maybe shoot beginnings.

Weeks 4‑6

  • Roots firm up. For cutting species, new foliage may appear.

  • If the plant is one that flowers in water (e.g. hyacinth, water lilies etc.), flowers may start forming.

Weeks 6‑8

  • For cuttings fully rooted, you can choose to continue in water or move some to soil to compare performance.

  • Bulbs may reach full bloom. Enjoy.

After Week 8

  • Assess which flowers do best. Clean containers. Maintain water hygiene. Think about long‑term care (e.g. wintering bulbs, dividing aquatic plants etc.).


Examples to Try at Your Home

Here are some mix‑and‑match suggestions to try together (for indoor display, vases, or small ponds):

  • For indoor vases: Peace lily cutting, Petunia cutting, Lavender cutting.

  • For bulb display by window: Hyacinth bulbs, Oxalis bulbs in glass vessels.

  • For small pond / water feature: Water Iris, Water Lily, Water Poppy.


What to Expect & How Long It Lasts

  • Cuttings: roots in 1‑4 weeks; foliage/new growth after that. Flowering may take longer or require soil later.

  • Bulbs: bloom usually 4‑8 weeks (depending on species, chilling, light).

  • Aquatic species: flowering season based (many bloom in warm / high sunlight periods).

  • Long‑term success: depends on maintaining clean water, adequate nutrients, light, and preventing rot or disease. Some aquatics will naturally renew; bulbs may need rest periods.


If you want, I can prepare a “8 Flowers You Can Grow in Water in Casablanca / Morocco” version, picking species that thrive in your climate, what light/water availability you likely have, and where to source them. Would that be helpful for you?

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