1. Deadhead the Spent Flowers (But Not the Leaves!)
Once your daffodils finish blooming, the first step is to remove the faded flowers, a process called deadheading. Why? Because if you leave the blooms on, the plant will start putting energy into producing seeds. That diverts energy away from the bulb, which needs to store nutrients for next year’s growth.
How to do it:
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Snip off the flower heads just below the swollen seed pod, leaving the stem and leaves intact.
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Use clean, sharp pruners or scissors.
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Avoid pulling or twisting, which can damage the stem and bulb.
Important: Do not remove or tie up the foliage. The leaves are still working hard to photosynthesize and feed the bulb. This is one of the biggest mistakes people make.
2. Let the Leaves Die Back Naturally
This might seem messy, especially if your daffodils are in a tidy garden bed or front yard, but it’s absolutely critical. The green leaves are like solar panels, soaking up the sun and converting it into food that the bulb stores for next year.
What not to do:
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Don’t mow over them.
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Don’t tie them in knots or braid them (this was once a common but harmful practice).
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Don’t cut them down prematurely.
Let them yellow and wither completely on their own—this can take 6 to 8 weeks depending on your climate. Only then should you remove the dead foliage.
3. Fertilize After Blooming (Not Before!)
If you want bigger, better blooms next year, fertilize your daffodils right after they flower, not before. Pre-bloom feeding doesn’t do much, but post-bloom feeding helps the bulbs recharge and grow.
What kind of fertilizer?
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Use a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 5-10-10.
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Bone meal is also a great natural option.
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Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers (which encourage leaf growth but not blooms).
How to apply:
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Sprinkle the fertilizer around the base of the plants.
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Water it in thoroughly so the nutrients soak into the soil.
4. Water Regularly—But Not Too Much
Many people assume that since spring is a wet season, daffodils don’t need extra water. But a dry spring or sudden warm weather can quickly dehydrate the plants, especially while they’re trying to store energy.
Watering tips:
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Keep the soil evenly moist (but not soggy) for several weeks after blooming.
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Once the foliage starts to yellow, reduce watering. The bulbs are going dormant and don’t need as much moisture.
Pro tip: Avoid overwatering or planting in soggy soil. Daffodil bulbs will rot if left in standing water.
5. Consider Dividing Crowded Clumps
Are your daffodils blooming less than they used to? Are the flowers smaller or fewer in number? It might be time to divide the bulbs, especially if it’s been 3–5 years since planting.
Signs it’s time to divide:
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Fewer blooms.
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Leaves but no flowers.
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Crowded clumps.
When to divide:
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Wait until the foliage has completely died back.
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Dig up the bulbs gently using a garden fork.
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Separate and inspect them. Discard any that are soft, moldy, or diseased.
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Replant the healthiest bulbs immediately or store them in a cool, dry place until fall.
6. Mark Their Location
This might seem minor, but it’s incredibly helpful. Once the foliage dies back, you’ll quickly forget where the daffodils were planted—especially if they’re scattered in perennial beds or naturalized areas.
Why it matters:
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Helps avoid accidentally digging them up later in the season.
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Aids in planning future plantings or landscape changes.
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Critical if you plan to divide or transplant bulbs in fall.
Use garden markers, stakes, or a garden journal to record their locations and bloom performance.
7. Plan Companion Plantings
Since daffodil foliage hangs around for several weeks after blooming, it can look messy or sparse. This is a perfect opportunity to plant around them with later-blooming perennials or annuals.
Great companions:
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Hostas: Their broad leaves will hide fading daffodil foliage.
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Daylilies: They bloom in summer and fill the space as daffodils fade.
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